San Francesco, Assisi

Work started on this enormous two-storey building almost immediately after St Francis' death in 1226. It was completed within two years, an astonishing achievement. The two churches were built in the new Gothic style, showing the influence of French architecture. When St Francis' body was brought here in 1230, Brother Elias, head of the Franciscan Order, scandalised the crowd by locking the doors and secretly burying it deep within the rockface to stop the Perugians stealing it. It was not discovered for six centuries. Later in the 13th century a complex scheme was drawn up to fresco both the upper and lower churches. Many of the greatest artists in central Italy flocked to work here, notably Cimabue and Giotto from Florence, Pietro Lorenzetti and Simone Martini from Siena. Particularly memorable are Giotto's frescoes of the Life of St Francis in the upper church, showing his new, realistic style, Lorenzetti's dramatic scenes of the Passion in the left transept of the lower church, and Simone Martini's Story of St Martin, off the left aisle, where the Saint appears as the epitome of chivalry. NB very strict dress code enforced by custodians, no bare legs or arms will be admitted!