Castello di Vicarello
Castello di Vicarello is truly special and the perfect retreat for complete restoration of the body and soul. A 12th century castle, located in the Maremma, still a fairly undiscovered part of Tuscany you feel a million miles away from the tour groups and coach loads that flock to the hilltowns of Chianti.
All of the eight bedrooms have their own character but share the same high level of comfort. Televisions are forbidden, however the softest sheets, divine bath products made with organic ingredients from the garden, art books galore and other home comforts are not. The owners Carlo and Aurora Bacceschi Berti have travelled extensively in the Far East and this is evident in the handcarved Indonesian day beds, 19th century Thai antiques and the general feel of spirituality and peace. Our favourite suite is La Chiesina, a private jasmine covered cottage which was made for honeymooners. Other rooms include the split level Giardino which has its own private garden and La Grotta with its cave like setting amidst the olive groves.
The Spa is a recent edition and occupies its own cottage overlooking recently planted vines and woodland. The Indian therapist specializes in Ayurvedic treatments and her massages are recognised as outstanding. It feels utterly indulgent to watch the sun set on a warm summer evening whilst relaxing in the hot tub, watching the swallows swoop and dive as crickets chatter in the background.
There are two stunning pools to choose from in the breathtakingly beautiful grounds; rows of lavender, banks of scented roses and jasmine pervade the air and there are a variety of quiet spots to read a book, enjoy the sun or feast on one of the mouth watering dishes created by Aurora and her team. The kitchen is so good that it is quite possible not to leave during your stay. Dishes are predominantly Tuscan including fresh pasta, cakes and cheeses on a daily basis. There is no menu to choose from, dishes are dependent on what is fresh in the garden that day and what the local suppliers have in season. On a recent visit, we feasted on fresh ravioli stuffed with pheasant and rosemary, Tuscan steaks and a salad made up of crisp leaves picked moments earlier.
This is not somewhere to come if you want to sight see through Tuscany. The fact that it is so off the beaten track is one of the reasons that make it so special. Vicarello is understated luxury at its best and we urge you to visit soon.