Villa Borghese

On a fine day, the walk across the Borghese Gardens is one of the delights of Rome. On the far side stands the recently re-opened Villa Borghese, which contains a superb collection of paintings and sculpture formed by the voracious collector Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, in the early 17th century. The ground floor is devoted to sculpture, including the outstanding early Bernini sculptures of the Rape of Persephone and David, both heralding the Baroque style in their dynamic movement, and the remarkable nude statue of Pauline Borghese by Canova. One can imagine the excitement she generated when she appeared at a nocturnal liaison, accompanied by her negro slave. Upstairs, one can gain a real feel for the Cardinal's eclectic taste, ranging from major Old Masters, notably Raphael's Entombment, Correggio's Danae and Titian's beautiful Sacred and Profane Love, to contemporary works by Domenichino and Caravaggio. The latter's provocative Boy with a Basket of Fruit, with its overt homosexual tone, still has the power to shock.