...But to get the authentic flavour of the 'water-based weirdness', don't stay in a hotel: rent your own piano nobile apartment. Palazzetto Salvioni, which you can book through Italian specialist Bellini Travel, has a Renaissance hall of "dumbfounding majesty". The main salon is covered in frescoes of plump, bare- breasted beauties; Murano chandeliers tinkle in the breeze. The palazzo, which has both a land and a water entrance, is set a little off Venice's tourist trail, in the Castello district...
...After a hard day's sightseeing, return to Palazzetto Salvioni for a drink among lemon trees in the garden...
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